Scotland’s Secret Swimming Sanctuaries: A Journey Through Historic Tidal Pools

May 2025, Words by Freya Bromley

From the Victorian-era pool at St Monan's, where locals still gather at dawn, to the sheltered waters of Pittenweem where fishermen's wives once learned to swim, each of Scotland’s tidal pools holds its own story.

Along the coast in St Andrews a dark pool of water can be found beneath the dramatic ruins of a castle. Black rocks stretch towards the shoreline like fingers dragged across the sand. Nearby once stood Step Rock pool, known as ‘Witch Lake’, where women accused of witchcraft faced water trials in the 16th century. 

What remains is a calm, still pool. Many people pass this beach without a second thought. On cold, bright mornings a women’s swimming group meet to swim laps, share flasks of tea and sometimes teach their grandchildren how to swim. Looking at the blue-black water, it’s compelling to consider the transformation of water as a method for harming women, and now for uniting them. 

Just like Castle Sands and Step Rock, there are more seawater pools across Scotland’s east coast. All have similar stories to tell. Tidal pools are a unique combination of a natural pool that fills with seawater on an ebbing tide but with a man-made element such as metal steps or a cement boundary. They’re the perfect architectural harnessing of nature. The sea can be full of dangers, like rip tides or strong currents, but a boundaried tidal pool protects you. The Trinkie in Scotland, for example, is located where waves of the North Sea beat ferociously against the cliffs, and much of the coastline there is inaccessible. Yet, nestled amongst the vicious rocks, a perfect lazuline pool of water offers a safe swim. It’s remarkable that throughout history communities have found ways to connect with the landscape around them by creating these saltwater sanctuaries.

These places — part natural, part engineered — have been gathering spaces for generations of Scots. In the far northeastern corner of Scotland, the town of Wick harbours two tidal pools: The Trinkie and North Baths. Here, a cherished annual ritual sees locals gather with paintbrushes and determination, giving the pool walls a fresh coat of white paint that makes the water shimmer. On clear days swimmers can glimpse the outline of Orkney while floating in its protected waters.

Following the coast south brings you to St Monans where a Victorian-era pool sits in the shadow of a windmill. Its location is a reminder of the area’s industrial heritage. This clay-coloured pool fills twice daily with the tide, its waters reflecting golden sunsets across weathered stone. Dawn gatherings here have become a modern tradition with local swimming groups meeting as the sun rises over the Firth of Forth casting pink, orange and purple sunrise reflections in the pool. 

Just five minutes away there’s another tidal pool to be found. Pittenweem’s pool really speaks to Scottish ingenuity. When restoration funds were needed the community built a miniature golf course, channelling proceeds into pool maintenance. Here, fishing families have taught their children to swim for generations.

Not all of Scotland’s tidal pools have survived the passage of time. Tarlair’s art deco lido once hosted outdoor performances by Jethro Tull and Runrig but now stands as a haunting reminder of Scotland’s seaside golden age. Similarly, Portsoy’s pool lies dormant though local campaigns for restoration speak to these spaces’ enduring importance in coastal communities.

Each pool has its own traditions and tides. Swimming in these spaces connects visitors to centuries of Scottish coastal life, from the fishing communities who built them to the modern wild swimmers who maintain them. These aren’t just places for a dip, they’re living monuments to local resilience and community spirit. As dawn breaks over these ancient pools and steam rises from their surface in crisp morning air it’s easy to understand why generations of Scots have found solace in these swimming sanctuaries. They remain as they’ve always been – places of gathering, of story-sharing and of connecting with Scotland’s wild waters. 

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